Showing posts with label Restaurants. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Restaurants. Show all posts

Monday, March 30, 2020

Thrillist: Cape Verde Vacation Planner

We could all use a little escapism right now, right? 


Photo courtesy of Thrillist

If you agree, then check out my recent article for Thrillist about planning a trip to Cape Verde, a small island nation off the coast of West Africa that I have been wistfully longing to return to ever since leaving last June and named one of Thrillist's 20 best places to travel in 2020. Although cooped up like all of you in quarantine, I can't help dreaming about a return to sunny cocktails and sandy shores, and this is top of my list to get back to someday.

Read the full article on Thrillist here, and the copy is also saved below for posterity. Tell me - have you been to Cape Verde? What other destinations are you dreaming of escaping to in these tense times? I'd love any recommendations you might have for planning when we're all free again!

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Located 350 miles off the coast of Senegal, Cape Verde is a one-of-a-kind island nation, comprised of some of the most gorgeous tropical islands in the world. Historically, though, this wasn’t always the easiest place to survive.

Arid and uninhabited when the Portuguese landed here in the 15th century, Cape Verde's difficult ecology is an extension of the nearby Sahara Desert and multiple volcanoes. Over the centuries, each of its 10 islands developed a distinct cultural flavor, thanks to the disparate groups of people that passed through and managed to survive there. Today, Cape Verde has emerged from a history of struggle and poverty with a rich, complex culture all its own.

All Cape Verdean culture seems to include principles of yin and yang, struggle and celebration, light and dark. The music, best described as a blend of slow Portuguese Fado and Caribbean pop, often pairs happy instrumentation with pensive, deep lyrics; the food is spicy but filled with umami; and the wine is light but deeply flavorful (and shockingly cheap -- a good bottle easily knocks in at under $5 USD, even in restaurants).

Innovative Cape Verdeans have used the dry, mineralized soil to create a delicious cuisine starring bold wines, flavorful coffees, and hearty produce. Combined with fresh seafood and the nearby legacy of dishes like Senegalese thieboudienne, Cape Verdean food blends the best traditions of Portugal and the West African diaspora into flavorful, stewed dishes you’ll find nowhere else.

An increasingly popular destination for Europeans, Cape Verde still flies under the radar for Americans. But with flights to be found in the $600 range, we’re calling Cape Verde one of the 20 Best Places for a Big Trip in 2020. To make the most of your trip, we made this 10-day itinerary featuring the best things to do on the islands -- but when in doubt, find some sand and follow the music.

When to visit Cape Verde in 2020

To avoid the rainy season, plan to visit November through June. Head to the island of São Vicente the week of Shrove Tuesday (February 25) to catch Cape Verde’s celebration of Carnival, which blends the best of Brazilian party and parade traditions with West African influences. An annual crowd favorite is the performance by the Mandingas, an ethnic group from the nearby countries of Senegal and Gambia, who dress as warriors and lead parades throughout the festival. Because attendance is lower at the Cape Verdean Carnival than its Brazilian and Caribbean counterparts, it is comparatively quite affordable.

All festivals in Cape Verde place music in a starring role -- the Gamboa Music Festival on the island of Santiago is in May every year and features an eclectic mix of world-class DJs, local bands, and guest musicians from all over Brazil and Africa who perform a range of genres including salsa, Latino, zouk, reggae, and funaná.

Know before you go

It’s tough to hit every island within a 10-day time frame, and every island has a different vibe to offer, so the best strategy is to pick two or three islands and really nail it.

Visitors with US passports don’t need to purchase a visa unless you’re staying for more than a month. There’s a 31 euro fee per person upon arrival, so exchange some money into euros before leaving the States. (Cape Verde’s local currency, the escudo, is available at ATMs in urban locations around the islands).

Days 1-3: Kick off with beach time on the island of Sal, or São Vicente

Dive deep into island life and fly into Sal, the tourist hub of Cape Verde. This island is a one-stop shop for savoring the sun, sand, sea, and stars. Do as many active excursions as possible (dune buggies, sailing, horseback riding, etc.) with a local company like No Limits Adventure.

Visit a beach where turtles nest; stand in a bay of lemon sharks; and visit historic towns, like the salt-production center in Pedra de Lume for the chance to float in the world’s second-saltiest body of water. You can rent a car and guide yourself around, but to get the most bang for your buck, I recommend a formal tour with Reis Transport.

If you’d rather go somewhere a little less crowded, choose the island of São Vicente. This is the birthplace of world-renowned singer Cesária Évora. Cape Verdean music has evolved from African, Portuguese, and Brazilian influences; the primary genre is a slow, bluesy style called Morna -- Cesária Évora's specialty.

Évora’s spirit is everywhere on her island of birth; visit her home or her grave in Mindelo and savor the beautiful colonial architecture along the way. Évora often sang about São Vicente, describing it as “a little Brazil / full of joy and colors.” You’ll see why immediately while standing at the summit of Mount Verde, Cape Verde’s highest point, or driving through Madeiral, a valley that grows most of the island’s produce such as bananas, papayas, mangos, palm dates, and sugar cane, also popular Brazilian crops.

Days 4-6: Slow down on Boa Vista

On the island of Boa Vista, you'll explore a stunning diversity of beaches in a surprisingly small geographic area; there are direct flights from Sal.

Some of the best beaches include the white sand and quiet seclusion of Praia de Chaves (also a prime windsurfing spot); the golden sand of Praia de Santa Mónica, perfect for long, romantic walks or spotting whales; Praia de Atalanta, where you can explore a shipwreck in the warm, shallow water; or the Praia de Cabral, right by the city of Sal Rei, Boa Vista’s capital. Sink slowly into glowing sand with a cool drink and no plans.

If you get tired of bumming by the water, hire a quad bike through Quad Zone to take advantage of Boa Vista’s unique ecology. A must-visit is the Viana Desert, an extension of the Sahara that will take your breath away. The desert sand also contributes to Boa Vista’s reputation for excellent ceramics, so stop by the city of Rabil, Boa Vista’s former capital, to purchase some traditionally made ceramic goods.

An unforgettable visit is the Museu dos Naufràgos (Museum of Castaways), where guests pose as castaways from a recently crashed ship and are led on a journey through a mystical history of the islands. For a more academic time, hire Cau Tours for a detailed look at Sal Rei.

Days 7-8: Food, wine, and volcanic black sand on Fogo

Take a ferry or airplane from Boa Vista to the otherworldly volcanic island of Fogo, the hungry traveler's favorite stop in Cape Verde. Chã das Caldeiras, the active volcano at the center of the island, looms over all of Fogo and is responsible for the dry but nutrient-dense soil that drives Cape Verde’s wine and coffee industry.

Even the most experienced hikers should hire a local guide to take you up to the peak of the volcano. Prepare to commit -- most tours begin very early and last for a full day, leading directly to the volcano’s peak, then making several stops on the way back down at local villages, which grow excellent wine and coffee. Make sure to ask if the price of your tour includes food and drink at these stops, and bring cash -- you’ll want to haul back at least a few bottles of wine or some goat cheese.

Don’t leave without ordering some Fogo culinary specialties like djagacida (a dense, flavorful, starchy dish made of corn, fish, and beans -- think of it like red beans and rice meets mofongo), pastel de milho (a cake made of corn), bissap (hibiscus flower juice), or calabaceira (baobab fruit juice).

Days 9-10: Cape Verde’s largest island, Santiago

The largest island of Cape Verde, Santiago is home to Praia, Cape Verde’s capital and biggest city. It’s easy to get around Santiago on your own with Ubers and taxis, plus it's easier access to shopping and a wider variety of restaurants and lodging. Praia also offers front-row access to the best clubs featuring live music.

To get a tour of the full island, contact Bu Country Tours -- you’ll get a taste of everything from the Praia market to a traditional Cape Verdean cooking demonstration and a stop at a banana and coconut plantation. Another easy drive from Praia is through the lovely Serra Malagueta Natural Park at the northern portion of Santiago. Or, take a quick jaunt to Cidade Velha, an original 15th century Portuguese settlement with cobblestone streets and dazzling views of the islands.

Whatever route you take, no trip to Praia (or indeed all of Cape Verde) is complete without a night out at Quintal da Musica for a delicious dinner and an unforgettable exposure to traditional Cape Verdean music forms like morna and funaná. Close out your trip on a high note by making sure to order a caipirinha and gambas grelhadas (grilled prawns) to start, followed by a bottle of the crisp local white wine Cha Vinho Do Fogo and the arroz de polvo (octopus rice) for a meal you will never forget, much like the mournful music.

Keep it going: Get to the West African continent

If Cape Verde has piqued your interest in West Africa, now's the time to explore this region, which is uniting under the banner of ECOWAS (think of it as the European Union of West Africa, with a connected infrastructure and currency currently in progress). There are many options to travel between nations, so don't be afraid to flight hop or rent a van and hire a driver for the long haul.

One of the easiest places for Americans to start is Ghana, an English-speaking nation with several direct flights from the East Coast. Ghana has wonderful food, wildlife, and historic tours, plus a bustling African American expat community that is thriving after a successful "Year of Return," a 2019-long celebration that encouraged members of the African diaspora to return to the motherland.

Senegal is a close second choice; its capital, Dakar, is a rapidly rising arts and cultural center. Dakar has wonderful beaches, museums, cuisine, and historic sites to visit, as well as a fun club scene. For a quieter but no less enjoyable stop, consider visiting Togo, a small Francophone nation tucked between Ghana and Benin. You'll find affordable safaris, the origins of Voodoo, and arguably the best foufou the region has to offer.

Meet the Writer

Becki Iverson is a Thrillist writer and an ardent lover of all things arts, food, and travel. You can follow her wide-ranging passions on her blog, Compendium, or on social media on Instagram.  

When was the last time you were in Cape Verde?

June of 2019, at the tail end of a dream trip and honeymoon through West Africa.


What drew you there?

One of my first bonding experiences with my husband was over music. I had always loved the soulful voice of Cesária Évora, and he also loved her music right away. We played her catalog constantly -- she became such a favorite that we included multiple songs in our wedding. It became a priority for us to visit her homeland someday, and when we realized we’d be nearby for our honeymoon in West Africa, we had to spend the extra cash to make sure we made it there to pay homage.

What was the most surprising thing about the place that you didn't expect?

Experiencing the blended Creole identity that the majority of Cape Verdeans now share was striking for an interracial couple like my husband and I -- especially coming from a place like America where people tend to draw stark lines between their individual racial identities. It’s one of the few places we have not received stares out in public together (New Orleans is the only similar comparison I can think of). This story in the LA Times captures Cape Verde’s complex multiracial dynamic better than I ever could.

Number one can’t-miss recommendation for a visitor?

Visiting Quintal da Música for a long dinner, cocktails, and live music. There’s no better way to capture the spirit and contradictions of Cape Verde than spending some real time listening to morna and coladeira.

For example, Cape Verdeans have struggled to define their culture through the centuries -- are they more African? Portuguese? Or something entirely new? One of Cesária’s most famous songs is called “Africa Nossa” (or “Our Africa”). It has a very upbeat, celebratory musical tone, yet includes quite serious lyrics like these:

The sky has cleared
Consciousness has brightened
The time has come to face reality
A suffering people
Have soothed their pain
To live in peace and progress

Make sure to spend time with some songs, even before you go, to gain a richer understanding of the push-pull nature of this culture.

How easy is it to get around for English speakers?

Cape Verde has been a very stable democracy for more than 30 years and is quite safe for tourists. I recommend utilizing a local tour service to connect your destinations or help schedule tours. Travel between islands can be difficult, and spontaneous travel and lodging between islands is especially tough to navigate. Two great options are Todahora Tours or Cape Verde Vacation and Services.

If, however, you prefer to visit only one or two locations slowly on your own or don’t anticipate trying to pack in many activities across multiple islands, you can wing it with no trouble. You’ll find travel conveniences like Uber and Airbnb, especially on the more populated islands like Sal, Santiago, or Boa Vista.

What’s your top piece of advice for someone going for the first time?

This is a place where it really pays to plan ahead. Because travel between islands is relatively limited (usually just a couple flights or ferry options per day), it’s hard to spontaneously jump between them. It’s also like any other island nation where the pace is slower than urban continental life, so expect things to take longer than you’re probably used to.

What's the next big trip you have planned in 2020?

We have several friends living in Sweden and Norway, so we’re hoping to make it out to see them and explore parts of both countries I still haven’t seen (mostly the northernmost areas).

Monday, March 16, 2020

Consistently Updating Post: Ways to Help Fight Covid-19 in Minnesota

We're all in this together. 


Image by ADAM ZYGLIS, THE BUFFALO NEWS, NY

I, like many of you, have been shocked at how quickly changes due to COVID-19 have rippled through our communities in the last few weeks. Literally overnight we have seen closures of stores, entertainment, transit, conferences, workplaces, schools, and just about every non-essential function.

I know that I always feel better in times of need or crisis when I feel like I am able to do something (anything) to help others. Often that involves physical volunteering as my funds are limited, which is obviously off the table right now for most organizations (and for me personally).

That said, there ARE many ways that organizations are creatively finding ways to pitch in to help each other out and uplift the community. I've seen links flying around ad hoc and wanted to consolidate what I can find for anyone seeking a one-stop-shop of ways to give back and kick into gear. See below for what I have and keep checking back here - I will continuously amend this list as more organizations announce initiatives.

And as a reminder - make sure to express your gratitude when you are able to those who are on the front lines of risk of exposure to and fighting the infection rate of the virus. It expands far beyond just healthcare, and there are crucial groups of workers (such as janitors, grocery and gas store clerks, etc.) who deserve our care, attention, respect and gratitude. This article provides a good illustration of some of these workers and the risks they currently face.

To start off, this is a one stop shop collecting resources by zip code across the entire U.S. It's an amazing spot to resource help of many kinds - check it out: https://findhelp.org/

This is also a good resource for questions about the stimulus that passed the U.S. Senate yesterday - it's a handy FAQ from the New York Times. 

Healthcare 

I am *obviously* not a medical professional - so don't listen to me (or any other blogger / internet personality / etc.) about medical habits. Instead, seek these resources:


Education / Childcare

While schools are trying to set up remote learning, many parents still need to fill time with enriching activities while systems are down or overloaded. Here's a roundup of some proactive ideas:


Food Access

Many, many restaurants are offering to provide free meals to students who cannot eat for free at school (god bless them all!). This master list is being maintained with addresses and details of what kinds of meals are available.


For shoppers - pay attention to which foods have WIC marking on the price tags and when possible choose other options. WIC assisted shoppers are not allowed to choose other items when WIC items are sold out, so saving those groceries for those who have no choice will help those most in need.

Also some grocery stores are implementing limited hours for shoppers most at risk of the virus (compromised immune systems, the elderly, etc.) to shop first and have first access to most goods. Lunds & Byerlys is one such store - at-risk shoppers can come from 7 - 8 a.m., and the store opens to all shoppers after 8 a.m.

If you want something to do physically with your free time, Second Harvest Heartland needs volunteers to help pack individual food drop off boxes. They have a huge space that allows volunteers to follow COVID-19 protections (lots of soap available, 6+ foot distance between volunteers, etc.), so it's a safer option than others to volunteer. Click here to learn more.

And additionally, the hospitality industry is being devastated by this crisis - many are already unemployed, and restaurant and catering groups are quickly working to pivot towards nontraditional business revenues. Eater has a more global update on things you can personally do to help your favorite local venues weather this storm.

Local beer producers are beginning to offer pickup and delivery, so if you want libations to pick up your spirits (ahem) - click here to learn more and support small local businesses through an extremely tough time.

Additionally, CityPages developed a nice resource for restaurants and booze purveyors offering pickup and / or delivery, and WCCO News has created *the* definitive list (in interactive map form!) for restaurants offering pickup and delivery throughout the crisis.

NPR just did a great short piece on why you don't need to disinfect your groceries, also giving important tips for safely grocery shopping to limit your exposure.

Housing, Utilities and Pay

Help fellow citizens know their rights regarding housing bills and utilities; many state and governments are mandating consumer ad citizen protections, and Minnesota is one of them. The following are resources for anyone being challenged on bills, housing, etc.:

Several Twin Cities Neighborhoods are collecting resources to share with each other - check out the following links for those:

Entertainment / Business

If you're a long-time Compendium reader than you know how close the arts and entertainment industry of Minnesota is to my heart. They are being deeply impacted by the ongoing crisis. Below are some ways you can support them (as well as creative programs being released to help take your mind off things).

Donate

If you had tickets to a show that closed or was postponed, please don't ask for refunds if you can help it. Every dollar that can stay in the theatrical community will help keep doors open and lights on once they are cleared to do so, and liquid cash is one of the resources most scarce for these organizations even in the best of times.

Donate to the Personal Emergency Relief Fund for artists hosted by Springboard for the Arts. This is going to be a very, very important pot of money as dozens of theaters are indefinitely closed during the height of their regular season programming, affecting hundreds of artists around the state. If you have any cash, please toss a little their way.

Otto Bremer Trust just established a $50 million fund to help organizations weather the crisis. Click here for more information.

Minnesota Voluntary Organizations Active in Disaster (MnVOAD) has a full listing of organizations cleared to accept hands-on volunteers; check out their detailed information if you want to get out of the house to help the community.

Watch / Distract Yourself

This article is a nice reminder that it's ok to prioritize mental health and unplug from the constant barrage of news about the virus. Take a walk, do some meditation, read a book and call it a day. It's ok to slow down at this time. I will continue adding a roundup of creative initiatives from arts and entertainment organizations below as well:

Locally Hosted Options


National / International Options



Friday, January 31, 2020

Thrillist: The Best Twin Cities Distilleries For Tours and Tastings

Take my advice and go get ya fancy drank on. 


Photo courtesy of Thrillist

If you, like me, love a potent, locally made, well-mixed cocktail, then look no further than my latest roundup for Thrillist. I got to locate all the best local distilleries for y'all and even interviewed one of my favorite female founders for the piece. My full text is below, or click through to see the Thrillist page and more of my fun roundups you never knew you needed.

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Pretty much everyone knows that breweries have exploded around the Twin Cities. But there’s an equally robust renaissance happening right under our noses -- distilleries are opening up left and right in Minnesota. People tend to have a divisive relationship with spirits. But Heather Manley, the founder of Crooked Water Spirits, has nothing but love for them. Manley founded Crooked Water, the first certified woman-owned distillery in the country, after enjoying a transcendent sip of a dill infused aquavit made using 50 pounds of dill per batch.

“It was like tasting a strawberry from a store versus fresh out of the garden,” she said.

Manley went home inspired to make her own potently flavored spirits. First up was a cask finished bourbon launched in 2014. After quickly selling out of that first batch, Crooked Water has since expanded to include vodka, bourbon, apple brandy, rye whiskey, gin, and its crown jewel: two ready-to-pour cocktails that rival anything you can get made fresh at a cocktail bar.

“We don’t do ‘normal.’ We’re looking at how we can be an elevated brand using elevated ingredients. We may have a higher price point, but it’s a next-level experience,” Manley says.

The proof is in the pudding, as Crooked Water has won 50 national awards and it’s become well-known for its ready-to-pour Negroni and proprietary sweet vermouth, which are primarily available in local markets. “As we’ve grown, we’ve been transparent in what we can offer, what we’re willing to give, to make sure I can fill my backyard first.”

A number of similarly excellent distilleries have sprung up around the Twin Cities over the last few years. Luckily, they have tasting rooms where you can directly sample spirits and choose a bottle or two to take home. If nothing sounds better to you than a dirty martini or unctuous Old Fashioned, read on for our favorite distilleries in the Minneapolis metro area.

Crooked Water Spirits
Uptown, Minneapolis
Although Crooked Water does not have its own tasting room, you can try its products at rotating locations around the Twin Cities. Follow the distillery on Facebook to find the next event. Our recommendations to buy? Crooked Water offers sample size bottles of the Kings Point Bourbon, Old Hell Roaring Bourbon, and the transcendent pre-mixed Manley’s Old Fashioned to try a few at once. Or splurge for a full size of one of the Negroni or Old Fashioned pre-mixed cocktails. You will be shocked at how flavorful they are compared to a fresh mixed drink. Coming this year? A pre-mixed Boulevardier and we can’t wait.

Norseman
Northeast, Minneapolis
Founded in 2013, Norseman claims to be the first legal micro distillery in Minneapolis since Prohibition and boasts one of the world’s largest craft spirits portfolios. Order a Shark Bait, mixing pineapple rum and pineapple chipotle gin, or a Flamingo with ingredients like tehkeela, yellowstone liqueur, and creole bitters. Norseman also offers fun events like distillery tours or cocktail classes that allow you to be hands on. If that isn’t enough, check out its solid happy hour every Wednesday that includes half-price classic cocktails and deals from the I Heart Tacos truck. Make sure to take a bottle of one of the distillery’s 31 unique spirits home. While the standards like gin or rum are excellent, spring for one of its unique offerings like the Olympia Liqueur, which features notes of peppermint, parsley, sage, and star anise.

Du Nord
Longfellow, Minneapolis
While micro-distilling is a field that inherently prioritizes high quality, Du Nord takes it one step further by ensuring all of its base grains and fermentables are grown right here in Minnesota. Best known for its classic spirits, Du Nord features cocktails like the Fitzgerald gin gimlet or L’Etoile vodka martini.(Read about said farmers on the website, if you want to put a face to a name.) Du Nord serves up happy hour every weekday from 5-6pm, allowing guests to bring in takeout food from local vendors. Hour-long public tours are available every Friday and Saturday.

Copperwing Distillery
St. Louis Park 
A recent addition to the distillery scene, Copperwing has made a big mark in a small amount of time. In addition to standards bourbon, vodka, and gin, Copperwing distills a proprietary liquor called Vodskey, a clear spirit made from bourbon mash that is distilled like vodka. Consider it a tasty, full-bodied spirit and a welcome flavor punch. Or try Copperwing’s signature Fresas, combining its smooth gin, fresh strawberry juice, and a bit of sweetness. Recommended cocktails include the Napoleon, made with gin, orange liqueur, and red wine aperitif, or a classic Old Fashioned. Copperwing also offers weekly live music on Wednesdays and one-hour distillery tours on Saturdays.

Tattersall
Northeast, Minneapolis
Tattersall is likely the first name that comes to mind when seeking Minnesota-distilled products. The gold standard for local distilleries, this impressive brand has more than 50 San Francisco Spirits Awards, a free app providing nearly 400 cocktail recipes at your fingertips, and was recently named one of the top 5,000 fastest-growing companies in America with no sign of slowing down. Perhaps because the distillery manager has a foraging background, Tattersall offers 24 spirits with unique flavor profiles like Creme de Fleur, a liqueur made with six different kinds of flowers, or Fernet containing more than 30 distinct botanicals. If you’re ordering at the cocktail room, we recommend getting one of the $15 flights to taste a range of products before settling on a single bottle or cocktail.

Twin Spirits
Northeast, Minneapolis
Another Minnesota-made, woman-founded distiller is Twin Spirits Distillery, offering solid standards like gin, vodka, rum, and whiskey. Twin Spirits’ differentiating product is its moonshine, which is made from Minnesota-raised honey and brewed once a month during the full moon. Feel free to make your visit an all-day affair by visiting its signature M coffee shop (where you can order your coffee with a spirited kick) in the morning, and staying through the afternoon hours on the dog-friendly patio. Twin Spirits is open Wednesday through Saturday and can provide tours with founder Michelle Winchester by request.

Dampfwerk
St. Louis Park
Opened in November 2019, Dampfwerk is a fresh addition to the Twin Cities distillery scene but already looks poised to stay. The spot sources locally grown fruits like apples and grapes to make European-inspired fruit liqueurs. Order a flight to get a taste of the brandies or herbal liqueurs, then splurge on a creative cocktail like the Green Card with gin, sarsaparilla, egg white, and bitters or the 1913 with pfeffersack (a German-style fernet), rose water, honey, and cardamom. Although the distillery is open every afternoon starting on Wednesdays, we recommend hitting it up on Sunday to order off of the sweet dessert Kaffeeklatch menu.

Royal Foundry
Harrison, Minneapolis
Royal Foundry distills spirits in the classic British tradition, meaning it turns out high quantities of gin, barrel-aged rum, and single-malt whiskey. The affordable menu includes nonalcoholic cocktails, savory snacks and tonics on tap. For the booze, snag a Cabin Fever made with butter rum, cocoa nib bitters, maple syrup; Sweater Weather combining pear vodka and cardamom bitters; or a Flight of the Kiwi mixing vodka, kiwi shrub, and bitter honey liqueur. If you like to move around while you sip your cocktail, you’re in luck: Royal Foundry has three pub skittle lanes (think bowling with smaller wooden pins) to play on while you drink.

Flying Dutchman 
Eden Prairie
Inspired by the founders’ globetrotting Dutch ancestry, Flying Dutchman takes a worldwide approach to distilling. Offering four core spirits (vodka, rum, an agave-based spirit similar to tequila, and a Mediterranean herbal gin), Flying Dutchman is more focused on the group experience than individual drop-ins. Contact the distillery to schedule tours, group tastings, or corporate events. Or, if you want to get even more hands-on, apply for the apprenticeship program to learn the entire craft of distilling from bottom to top.

Vikre
Duluth
If you fancy your cocktails a little further from home, consider road tripping to beautiful Duluth to sample the delights of Vikre Distilling. Vikre’s dynamic founders have compelling stories you’ll want to chat about for hours over drinks. Luckily, its products are as good as their origin stories. The signature cocktails are supremely creative. We recommend a Ponyboy (apricot-infused aquavit, coconut milk, turmeric syrup, and lime) or the Odd Job (a bracing blend of olive oil-washed gin and americano). Vikre also offers an equally creative menu of zero-proof cocktails if you’re off the wagon, and stay tuned for their rotation of bottled spirits to expand in the near future. Buy a to-go pack of the Frenchie, Vikre’s signature canned cocktail that riffs on a French 75 with an effervescent blend of gin, rosé, lemon, bubbles, and floral liqueur.

Tuesday, November 12, 2019

Thrillist: How the East African Community Enriches Twin Cities Culture

This is a big one for me. 

Photo courtesy of Thrillist

As long-time readers know, I've been writing for Thrillist for a couple of years now. Most of what I've had the chance to write has been listicle style roundups, but I was recently afforded the chance to write a focus piece on the East African community's deep roots in the Twin Cities. I take this opportunity very seriously and am so grateful for the chance to detail a positive, beautiful community I've admired deeply ever since I first moved to Minneapolis. 

As usual, the editors clipped some of my writing without getting a chance to share the whole thing. If you want to read their published version, please click here (and please do click! I want them to see this story getting lots of eyeballs). I have included my full copy below so readers can see the portions they cropped at the end, which includes more detail from Ifrah Mansour and about the current state of the community. 

Please give this lots of reads on the Thrillist travel site and encourage them to provide more coverage like this! There are so many hidden communities in the middle of our country who are thriving and doing amazing things, and they deserve to be covered as such. I appreciate your support! 

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Steam rises from a cup of cardamom and clove tea. Fragrant fish curry bubbles. Meat kebabs sizzle next to a half-dozen flaky, golden sambusas. This doesn’t sound like a typical meal you’d get in the Midwest. But, in fact, this kind of cuisine is common in East African restaurants in Minneapolis, the new vanguard of ethnic dining in the Twin Cities and the most visible element of a thriving immigrant community. 

With Ilhan Omar making waves in the national political arena as the highest profile member of Minnesota’s House of Representatives in Congress, it’s time to acknowledge that she is not an anomaly. For the last 30 years, a robust, diverse group of East African immigrants from Somalia, Eritrea, Ethiopia, and Kenya has happily called the Twin Cities home -- and their roots run deep. 

“The next place to experience Somali culture outside of Somalia is definitely Minnesota,” said Jamal Hashi, owner of Safari Restaurant and several other business ventures. “This is our home. A lot of us don’t know anywhere else.”

Snowy Minnesota might seem an unlikely destination for people born in one of the hottest, driest climates on earth, but it’s turned out to be an excellent choice for several reasons. Most of the first wave settled here as refugees after the Somali civil war started in 1991, placed by the U.S. State Department as part of the VOLAG program in which voluntary organizations sponsor refugees for their first point of entry to the United States. Minnesota has an unusually active concentration of VOLAG groups, including Lutheran Social Services, Catholic Charities, and World Relief Minnesota; these groups are also responsible for Minnesota’s high population of refugees from other regions too, such as the Hmong or Liberian communities. Once in the U.S. and on their feet, refugees have the option to move; thanks to the strength of programs in Minnesota that help refugees resettle and the growing numbers of friends and family moving to the state each year, most decided to stay and grow roots. 

Abdirahman Kahin, founder of the enormously popular fast-casual fusion restaurant AfroDeli, agrees. “I immigrated, but there are a lot of kids who are born in this country,” Abdirahman Kahin said. “Right now those who are under 15 outnumber the older ones. Minnesota is very lucky to have those kids for the future.”

By all signs, the community is thriving. From a scattered handful of menu-less restaurants in the mid ’90s there are now hundreds of modern eateries serving traditional food from East African cultures. Fusion dishes -- like African-spiced pastas, fast-casual gyros, Somali steaks, and spicy keke noodles -- are selling out in downtown skyway eateries. Retail outlets selling handmade clothes, halal meats, and bulk spices are in almost every urban and suburban area, and customers can even bargain for their prices just as they would in an open-air market back home. 

These businesses have found great success with their Minnesotan neighbors thanks to their appeal as a unique cuisine that has approachable crossovers with familiar favorites like Indian or Italian food. Somalia’s rich history in particular as an important hub for international trade over many centuries, and as a former Italian colony, makes its cuisine an approachable new fusion option with a twist; an apt parallel would be the way that French baguettes turned into banh mi in the hands of able Vietnamese cooks while Vietnam was still colonized. It also turns out that Minnesotans have a much higher appetite for spicy food and rich flavors than stereotypes would suggest. 

“The food I'm making is for everybody but the people I keep in mind most are people who have never had Somali food before,” said Hashi. “That's what motivates me to stay in the industry.”

Kahin has had the most high profile career of late through AfroDeli, a fast-casual restaurant that aspires to be the Chipotle of African cuisine. AfroDeli’s stunning success demonstrates the high demand for African food despite the stereotype that Minnesotans shy away from spice and flavor.

“A lot of people were saying, before I opened, that Minnesotans won’t try spicy food or African food, but we proved them wrong,” Kahin said. “Everyone is amazed how much business we have from the Minnesota community. I thought there was a way to serve this food to everyone, to the large public and package it in a way they can understand. African food is no different than Indian food or Chinese food or Mexican food.”

Part of that success lies in the attention to dining trends and palates that both Hashi and Kahin have expertly navigated. 

“There’s a big shift in the last 10 years from fast food to fresh ingredients, organic food, healthier food,” Kahin said. “The spices East African cuisine uses are the healthiest -- like cardamom, turmeric, ginger, cinnamon, which all help fight disease. We use a lot of organic and buy from local farmers when we can. Our meat is halal, so is killed humanely. We have only one freezer at the store for French fries. You can’t find a single microwave in our restaurants.” 

In his nearly 20 years in business, Hashi has also seen big changes.

“People are more educated about what they eat and you don’t have to advertise thanks to Twitter or Yelp,” Hashi said. “It’s a great advantage. The key has been providing an amazing experience that will translate to a new loyal customer. The level of palates have changed, the generations have changed, and for the better. As a chef, nothing remains the same.”

It turned out the biggest hurdle was just getting started. The first restaurants operated the way they did back home; for example, written and printed menus were not available and customers had to ask what the kitchen had on hand to place an order. Many dishes utilized ingredients unfamiliar to diners born and bred in Minnesota. The experience could be intimidating, but with a little organization and innovation any concerns were quickly put to rest. 

“I've had a lot of naysayers,” Hashi said. “I wanted to make a fast casual to serve non-Somalis Somali food. Everyone was backing away. I believed in it anyway, and it was 98% non-Somalis who came to eat. Everyone said that Minnesotans don’t like spicy food. What a lie – it blew my mind.”

Especially exciting are younger members of the community, who are bringing new technology and awareness to the East African experience. This includes the restaurant review and payment app Tavolo that innovated in-touch screen ordering and cashless transactions; the Top Figure podcast, providing entrepreneurship advice to aspiring young innovators; and artists like Ifrah Mansour, whose heartbreakingly funny performances provide a respectful, open place for the community to share their experiences.

“My art is inspired by my lived experiences and that of Muslims and refugees, particularly the diaspora community,” Mansour said. “This means that my art speaks to the experience of what it means to be American and an immigrant refugee Muslim woman, and all of the complexity that comes with that.”

Mansour has partnered with some of the most vaunted arts and cultural institutions in the state, including the Guthrie Theater, Children’s Theater Company, Minnesota Historical Society, Walker Art Museum, and Minnesota Institute of Arts (MIA). Her work couldn’t have come at a more opportune time.

“What I accidentally started, this conversation of learning the most painful part of your history and unearthing it, is something that we right now as a state, a country, a nation are also unearthing,” Mansour said. “We are also at a crossroad of do we continue the ways we were? Or do we go on this uncharted path to really see the histories we came from, including the histories our ancestors ripped off of the page?”

But life as an East African refugee, of course, has its challenges. Beginning life in a new country is always difficult, but especially so when the climate, language, and dominant religion is so visibly different from where you came from. Kahin has been especially active in fighting the message that the refugee community is a burden, testifying before Congress in defense of their economic contributions. 

“I try my best not to create political response pieces, but I happened to have these works that were ready,” Mansour said. “It’s interesting because our audience came with their rage and anger, but we were able to inspire people to say, ‘Here we get to calm down, we get to be human and listen a little bit.’”

There are the monthly profits that Kahin reinvests into his community, the vital conversations through artistic performances and talkbacks as Mansour has led, and the resources and research that Hashi has compiled to publish a book about Somali history and educate Americans about their past. No matter the avenue, this resilient, vibrant community is committed to embedding even deeper in the fabric of America. 

“Especially the last two years, there has been a lot of talk about immigrants and how we take jobs,” Kahin said. “I want to go against that narrative, telling the truth that we are creating jobs and adding value to the economy and to the market. We are expanding with the U.S. businesses. We are an asset, not a liability, to the economy. They all agreed, Republican and Democrat, that immigrants are a vital part of small business in America.”

Explore more about the East African community in Minnesota buy paying a visit to these restaurants, museums, and markets.

Phillips West, Minneapolis
The restaurant that introduced Somali food to the U.S.
One of the first Somali restaurants in the United States, Safari created several iconic dishes that have now become menu stalwarts around the globe. Top recommendations include the chicken fantastic, a revelatory interpretation of Somali pasta; the roasted goat cutlet, a traditional dish with flavorful goat meat; or the foule mudammes, an appetizer of steamed tilapia with spinach and savory olive oil. 

Midway, St. Paul
Setting the standard for Ethiopian and vegan cuisine
This legendary stop at the corner of Snelling and University is many people’s first exposure to East African cuisines. A pillar of the Ethopian dining scene, it’s also an excellent option for vegan and vegetarian diners who struggle finding good options in group settings. We haven’t had a bad dish here; go for any of the sampler platters to try a little bit of everything. 

Downtown Minneapolis and Downtown St. Paul
The Chipotle of African food you won’t be able to stop ordering
Chipotle better watch out; this African fusion fast-casual restaurant is taking over skyways throughout the Twin Cities. You can’t go wrong with any dishes, but the gyros and sambusas are second to none. Go big or go home with the full veggie platter, which never disappoints. And make sure to stop by the new downtown Minneapolis location opening this October, the first time AfroDeli is making it to the heart of the west side of the Mississippi. 

Midtown Phillips, Minneapolis
Swing by for a 101 introduction to the history of Somalis in Minnesota
The home of Somali arts in Minnesota, the Somali Museum is a one-stop shop for learning about Somali arts and culture. It was universally recommended as a safe, approachable place to learn about this community.  

Downtown St. Paul
Hear firsthand accounts from East African people’s perspective
MHS is the largest local historical society in the United States. They’ve recently partnered with members of the Somali and Oromo ethnic communities to record their stories and compile an exhibit about their experiences. Come for the impressive work MHS has done; stay for the personal narratives that give firsthand accounts of profound stories. 

Cedar-Riverside, Minneapolis
An innovative, one-stop service for African immigrants for finances, art and more 
The ADC’s visionary leadership has transformed the East African community, providing business loans, meeting space and organizational help for fledgling organizations, as well as important educational services for recent immigrants. ADC fills the gap left by dwindling governmental funding and provides vital services to immigrants from many parts of Africa. 

Cedar Riverside, Minneapolis
A friendly performance space with an awesome happy hour
A wicked happy hour, ongoing live music, and a large, friendly dance floor are not the only qualities that recommend the Red Sea. It also has a deep reservoir of affordable Ethiopian cuisines for vegetarians and carnivores alike. Make it a part of a tour of the Cedar Riverside neighborhood, where many of the Somali and Oromo community members are concentrated. 

Whittier, Minneapolis
A must-stop for an authentic Somali tea and shopping experience
No trip through the East African experience is complete without a stop at one of the malls hosting an authentic shopping experience. A host of specialty imported goods you can’t find anywhere else, including prayer rugs, spices, and handmade clothes, are packed together. Make sure to pick up some Somali tea (reportedly among the best in the Twin Cities) when you stop by. 

Becki Iverson is a Thrillist writer and an ardent lover of the Twin Cities. You can follow her wide-ranging passions on her blog, Compendium, or on social media on Instagram @beckiiverson or Facebook. When she's not exploring the local food and arts scene, Becki can be found at her day job in marketing for the AEC industry at Faithful+Gould in downtown Minneapolis.