Wednesday, June 3, 2020

Best Books by Black and POC Authors - A Roundup

Please save this page - I will be continuously updating over the years as more books and suggestions come to me. 

Image courtesy of Religion & Politics 

Hello dear readers –

As you may have noticed, I’ve taken an extended break from blogging. Between the COVID-19 crisis, the indefinite closure of #tctheater, the shutdown of travel and now the sacking of Minneapolis, it’s just not been a great time for the more lighthearted content I usually share. It’s also given me time to focus on some family and personal projects that need long-term tending.

That said, if you visit Compendium even modestly you will notice that I do a lot of reading. In light of the current movement to provide justice for George Floyd and other victims of racist violence, several people have reached out asking for recommendations of books for themselves and others.

Lucky for you, I’ve been rounding up just such information on my Goodreads page for years now. I don’t like the lack of sophistication in their listing capabilities, so instead I’m compiling a master list here broken by category. All of these books are ones I have read and found informative about the experience of people of color, especially black Americans, and all are authored by people of color (with a few rare exceptions at the end). I have also included a list of books that I have seen recommended by several sources I trust – I have noted where I haven’t read them, but I wanted to provide them as additional great resources, understanding that different people connect to different writing styles.

I plan to maintain this list for the future, so please save the link and let me know if you have additional books to share! I also highly recommend visiting this Google file(and bookmarking it) for an enormous treasure trove of online articles about the history of racism in the United States and ways to un-learn racist bias and become an anti-racist. I’ve had it bookmarked for years and regularly revisit and share this database. Do not discount this – although these are shorter articles or long-form journalism, they by no means are less valuable than an actual book.

Please stay safe, stay active, and stay strong my friends. While it’s hard to see the city burn, it’s harder to know of the centuries of injustice that have been visited on our friends and family of color. As Lizzo said, we ain’t free ‘til we ALL free – so keep fighting the good fight, educating yourself, and keeping the pressure on. We can win this!

With love and power,

Becki

My Top Books to Read First 


  • Any books by James Baldwin – Suggest The Last The Last Interview and Other Conversations: Any step towards understanding the black experience in America begins and ends with James Baldwin, period. All of his books should be required reading, but if you need a place to start, this collection of his last ever interview is a great survey of his expertise from the end of his life. Baldwin is a genius, a fabulous writer, and tragically underappreciated. If you read one author on this list, make it him. 
  • The New Jim Crow: Mass Incarceration In The Age of Colorblindness by Michelle Alexander: This was the first book that really radicalized me on race issues. Alexander is impeccably sourced and clear, with iron-clad legal proofs of the systemic racism built throughout our “justice” system and the insidious ways it hides in our systems to this day. She proves without doubt that Jim Crow never went away – it just evolved into more nefarious forms of discrimination. I have recommended and even bought this book for more people than I can count. It is essential reading. 
  • So You Want to Talk About Race by Ijeoma Oluo: This is singlehandledly the best book I have read about having conversations about racism with other white people. It includes tons of helpful analogies to help people of privilege understand things they’ve never experienced. Ijeoma also has a wonderful Twitter feed – give her a follow if you’re on that platform.
  • Between The World And Me by Ta-Nehisi Coates: The heartbreaking memoir heard ‘round the world. Back in the last round of Black Lives Matter protests came this letter Coates wrote to his son about growing up as a black man in a police state. This really humanizes the impact of our racist policies; I’d recommend reading this after The New Jim Crow for a zoom-out / zoom-in understanding of the experience of black men in our country. 
  • The Autobiography of Malcolm X by Malcolm X: A lot of people identify as a Malcolm vs. a Martin, but few understand just how close the two became before their tragic assassinations. This remains a magnificent read decades after Malcolm’s death and is really vital context to understanding what the Civil Rights movement did and did not accomplish, and why sometimes a less peaceful approach is the best one for black people acting in defense. 
  • A Testament of Hope: The Essential Writings and Speeches by Martin Luther King Jr.: People love to cherry pick pithy quotes from MLKJ, but few know the full depth and breadth of the systemic changes he argued for. I read this collection of his entire written works like a devotional throughout an entire year – it’s long, but worth soaking up one page at a time. 

Non-fiction Books for Adults about Race / Racism

Great Fiction Books by Black Authors


  • Beloved by Toni Morrison: There is a reason Toni Morrison was the first (and, to-date, and tragically, only) black woman to win the Nobel Prize for literature, and this book is it. Haunting, vital, unforgettable… it’s a pillar of the canon and a must-read. 
  • Things Fall Apart by Chinua Achebe: Another book that needs to become a pillar of the literary canon. This is the first in a series by this Nigerian author, which details life in pre-colonial Africa. This is a helpful way to visualize what black men lost when they began to see their homes colonized and were stolen from their birthplace. 
  • Kindred by Octavia E. Butler: You know all those movies where people time travel between modern and slavery times? Octavia Butler did it first, and she probably did it best. There’s a whole series of her work from the 1970s begging to be revisited. This is one of her best. 
  • Homegoing by Yaa Gyasi: One of the most impactful novels I’ve ever read that follows generations of black women from Africa to America. It’s among my most gifted and recommended books and gives you a nuanced view of the impacts of slavery and racism from both sides of the Atlantic. 
  • Any Books by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie: Adichie is a wonderful writer about the American African (yes, this is different from African American) experience. I’ve read all of her books and they are all fantastic. The link will take you to her author page so you can peruse the ones new-to-you and snap them up. If you need help choosing one to start, Americanah is the gold standard. 
  • I Am Not Sidney Poitier by Percival Everett: Percival Everett is IMHO *criminally* underrated. This novel, describing the plight of an orphaned black boy brought into fabulous wealth after being adopted by Ted Turner, is one of his best. Darkly funny and a book that will make you question all your assumptions about wealth equaling privilege.
  • An American Marriage by Tayari Jones: Novel depicting the impact of the prison pipeline from inside a marriage ripped apart by it. This will break your heart and illuminate how deep the dark consequences of sending someone to jail really go. 
  • The Sellout by Paul Beatty: Even years later I still don’t know how to describe this darkly comedic book, although it did bear shades of Percival Everett to me. Just think of it as “one of the most unique books about race in modern memory” and give it a go. 
  • Salvage the Bones by Jesmyn Ward: I’m hard pressed to think of another author writing more beautifully or heartwrenchingly about modern life in the American South as a black person. ALL of Jesmyn Ward’s books are stunners, but my favorite remains this slender novel about the impact of Hurricane Katrina on a group of motherless children. 
  • Cane by Jean Toomer: Classic book about life in America as a black person during the Harlem Renaissance. This book deserves to be far more widely known and read than it is – if we can read William Faulkner we sure as hell can read Jean Toomer. 
  • The Underground Railroad by Colson Whitehead: Vivid re-imagination of the process of taking the Underground Railroad to freedom, complete with several magical twists and turns. This will make the experience of being a slave much less abstract and sterile than history books do. 
  • Teaching My Mother How to Give Birth by Warsan Shire: Remember that little album Beyonce released called Lemonade? This is the book of poetry she heavily sampled throughout it. Shire’s words are lyrical, evocative, and ancient. Loved this collection. 
  • Don't Call Us Dead by Danez Smith: Gripping collection that is like the Black Twitter of poetry. This is thoroughly modern, deals tangibly with police brutality and queer identity, and I’ve since read all Smith’s collections – they are powerful. 
  • Life on Mars by Tracy K. Smith: Poetry somehow has a way of saying the unsaid, and this remains one of my favorite poetry collections of all time, bar none, regardless of subject matter. Truly revelatory language usage that deservedly won the Pulitzer Prize the year it was published. 
  • Skin, Inc.: Identity Repair Poems by Thomas Sayers Ellis: An incisively articulated indictment of America’s racial system long before Trayvon Martin's murder, this poetry collection was way ahead of its time. 
  • Sassafrass, Cypress & Indigo by Ntozake Shange: Slim novel that I described as “Zora Neale Hurston meets Lauryn Hill style;” “dipping into a pensieve of black female ancestral history.” Even better is Shange’s play for colored girls who have considered suicide / when the rainbow is enuf - if you haven’t read or seen it, check it out ASAP. 
  • White Teeth by Zadie Smith: Smith is a modern literary legend in the making. It’s very hard to believe this is her first novel, but it gives you a good idea of the high quality of all her work (I’ve read the rest – any of her other books are also worth picking up). 
  • She Would Be King by Wayétu Moore: Pseudo-superhero novel set at the founding of Liberia. This was a unique blend of African magical realism, Luke Cage and generational fiction like Homegoing
  • Land of Love and Drowning by Tiphanie Yanique: A modern Carribbean, voodoo, fairy tale-style novel. Need I say more? 
  • Stay with Me by Ayọ̀bámi Adébáyọ̀: Insight into life in polygamous African societies, sickle cell disease, familial meddling and more, you won’t be able to put down this powerful book. This one will give you a gut punch. 
  • The Hairdresser of Harare by Tendai Huchu: Another African author who packs a lot of content into a very short book. Lots of twists and turns in this entertaining novel that illuminates serious issues without being condescending. 
  • The Broken Earth Trilogy by N.K. Jemisin: Jemisin is the first and only author of any race or gender to win three straight Hugo awards (aka the Oscars of the fantasy world) for a series. This is a ripping good read but also a way to open your mind up to new fictional worlds beyond the stale Middle Earth-ian tropes white authors seem to rinse and repeat. 
  • Black Leopard, Red Wolf by Marlon James: Very dense, complex first entry in a soon-to-be trilogy. This weaves a lot of ancient African mythology with pure fantasy; it’s dark, it’s violent, and it’s totally unique. If you made it through Game of Thrones, you need to make it through this. 
  • Boondock Kollage: Stories from the Hip Hop South by Regina N. Bradley: I don’t usually like short story collections, but this one introduced me to a host of new black authors and was a really interesting twist on the genre. I visualize it something like the black literary version of Black Mirror
  • The City We Became by N.K. Jemisin: The brand spanking new installment from one of my favorite authors (see above), this seems particularly relevant due to the subject matter: watching a city become a sentient being, as visualized through characters representing its major boroughs. I couldn’t stop thinking of this imagery watching the protests arise around the world last week – this book will be one of its time for sure. 


Children’s Books Starring Black and POC Characters



Great Books by Wider POC Authors (Latinx, Asian, Indigenous, etc.) – All Genres 


  • They Called Us Enemy by George Takei: Takei is famous for his time on Star Trek, but his story starts in the concentration camps built to house Japanese Americans during WWII. Seeing the experience of being trapped and imprisoned in your own country through a child’s eyes will bring you to your knees and expose a sin of American history most us know far too little about. 
  • The Leavers by Lisa Ko: This is a rich, complex novel that provides a really nuanced dive into immigration policy in China and the U.S., as well as an expose on foreign adoption from the perspective of the adoptees themselves. This fits a niche that is really needed right now in terms of humanizing the immigration debate, especially the practice of separating BIPOC children from their parents (who are then deported home with no way to contact their kids) and what happens to them in "better homes" with white parents. 
  • In the Country We Love: My Family Divided by Diane Guerrero: Lost in the COVID pandemic and police protests is the fact that we are still arresting and detaining thousands of migrants at the border and in our cities. This is essential insight from a woman whose parents were taken while she was still a child. Learn why ICE needs to be dismantled and what separating families really means. 
  • Dear America: Notes of an Undocumented Citizen by Jose Antonio Vargas: Another first hand account of growing up in America undocumented and the long-term effects undocumented status has. Vital read to understanding the immigration and citizenship crisis. 
  • The Best We Could Do by Thi Bui: A perspective on the Vietnam War (and its aftermath) on people who had to flee their homeland. Also a striking graphic memoir and demonstration of the value of resilience, strength, education, hard work and dignity. 
  • The Latehomecomer: A Hmong Family Memoir by Kao Kalia Yang: Minnesota has been home to more Hmong people than anywhere else in the world for years, but how much do you actually know about the Hmong experience? This opened my eyes to what many of my neighbors went through to come to the U.S. I regretted not reading it sooner. 
  • Braiding Sweetgrass: Indigenous Wisdom, Scientific Knowledge, and the Teachings of Plants by Robin Wall Kimmerer: Beautiful book of essays by an indigenous author that helped me re-frame how deep colonial perspective goes, particularly in relation to environment and language (for example, Kimmerer describes how in indigenous languages the words for plants are active – like verbs – rather than nouns, demonstrating how they are constantly living things in relationship to us. A tree is not a tree, it is "treeing." A flower is "flowering." etc.). Fabulous, meditative read. 
  • There There by Tommy Orange: A short novel about the deep struggles indigenous people still face today, There There is a window into the shattered indigenous diaspora and the resilience still within it. This one is famous for a reason. 
  • The Sioux Chef's Indigenous Kitchen by Sean Sherman: Insight into traditional indigenous food systems from a local Minnesota chef. While most of the book focuses on foods Minnesota-based tribes would have made, Sherman takes care to include insight from chefs of other tribes around the country.
  • Moonshot: The Indigenous Comics Collection: This series of comics from indigenous artists of many tribes offers a wide range of artistic styles and voices. Again, an important way to continue to de-colonize your perspective of art and narrative.
  • A Place for Us by Fatima Farheen Mirza: Insight into modern Muslim life in America through a family struggling with many contemporary problems like addiction, being the black sheep, heartache and more. Hard to believe this was a first novel. 
  • Arab in America by Toufic El Rassi: This graphic novel does a show vs. tell version of life in the U.S. as a Muslim. Very impactful, fast read. 
  • The Return: Fathers, Sons, and the Land in Between by Hisham Matar: Lyrical, gorgeous memoir about a man’s relationship to his father after their family flees Libya and his father is later murdered by Qaddafi. Rich intersection of insight from life in Europe and in North Africa. 
  • The Complete Persepolis or Embroideries by Marjane Satrapi: Iran, and especially the women of Iran, is / are criminally misunderstood in America. Persepolis and Embroideries are an essential read for enriching our understanding of this ancient place, both good and bad. 
  • The Last Days of Café Leila by Donia Bijan: Beautiful novel about life in Iran vs. in America as an Iranian immigrant. Perfect summer beach read. 
  • Distant View of a Minaret and Other Stories by Alifa Rifaat: Short story collection by a legendary Egyptian author about life as a woman in Egypt. It’s progressive, diverse and pointed, covering arranged marriage, queer sex, sex in general and more. 
  • In the Time of the Butterflies by Julia Alvarez: Beautiful novel about life under Trujillo in the Dominican Republic. It’s historical fiction based on real people, wonderfully written, and the strong female protagonists will fully inspire you to be more activist in your own life. 
  • Gods of Jade and Shadow by Silvia Moreno-Garcia: Mayan fantasy fiction that you won’t be able to put down. I found this a romantic and illuminating journey into a culture I know shamefully little about. 
  • Boxers & Saints by Gene Luen Yang: When people think of colonialism they tend to forget about China. Gene Luen Yang is one of my favorite graphic novel authors anyway, but this series showing the fight against Christian missionaries was riveting and a history I knew far too little about. 
  • Palestine by Joe Sacco, Edward W. Said: Dazzling graphic novel-style introduction to Palestine that is also journalistic. Notable both for artistic style and subject matter – very impactful read. 
  • Erotic Stories for Punjabi Widows by Balli Kaur Jaswal: Asia is the world’s largest continent, but the thousands of cultural groups who live there tend to be conflated into one stereotype here in the U.S. This gives a slice of insight into the specific experience of Punjabi women in the form of a sexy, funny murder mystery. 
  • Pachinko by Min Jin Lee: A Dickensian level magnum opus about life for a Korean family across generations. This helps illuminate ways racism can play out in cultures outside of the United States. 
  • Being Peace by Thich Nhat Hanh: Thich Nhat Hanh is a name that belongs with other great pacifists – the Dalai Lama, Gandhi, etc. Beautiful primer on Mahayana Buddhism and how to uplift without judgement. Wonderful, soul-enriching book. 
  • Mahatma Gandhi and Leo Tolstoy Letters by Mahatma Gandhi: Primer on nonviolent resistance from across the pond, and a chance to see two great minds in action. 


Helpful Books by White Authors (Just A Few)


  • The Immortal Life of Henrietta Lacks by Rebecca Skloot: Although written by a white author, this is a vital book to putting the history of medical violence perpetrated against black Americans in perspective. It’s also a ripping good nonfiction read that you will tear through with abandon. If you aren’t sure why reparations are necessary, this case against the abuse a single family faced at the hands of medical and pharmaceutical corporations should lay it pretty bare. Oprah also produced a film version if you can find it. 
  • White Trash: The 400-Year Untold History of Class in America by Nancy Isenberg: This is the history of poor white people in America and how the American system was built from the ground up to exploit racial tensions so the rich could hold on to their power and property. It’s “the other side” of racism, if you will, and a helpful reminder that America was made this way on purpose
  • A Fistful of Shells: West Africa from the Rise of the Slave Trade to the Age of Revolution by Toby Green: It can be easy to forget that Africa was full of diverse, rich, deeply sophisticated civilizations before the arrival of Europeans. This is a deep dive that illuminates many of them and traces the origins of slavery through an economic lens. This greatly enriched my understanding of black heritage and my very poor knowledge of African history. 
  • Killers of the Flower Moon: The Osage Murders and the Birth of the FBI by David Grann: Gripping true story of how the FBI was founded to investigate the systematic murder of Osage tribe members after the discovery of oil on their reservation in Oklahoma. Another piece to understanding the puzzle of American military, police and intelligence organizations, and the systematic ways white supremacy has abused people of many races. 
  • Genghis Khan and the Making of the Modern World by Jack Weatherford: Decolonize your knowledge of world history. Genghis Khan is not famous for the things he deserves to be, like diversifying leadership and power structures, inventing paper currency, utilizing mobile engineering, and more. This will really flip your assumptions about world history and what constitutes "barbarianism" vs. “civilization” on its head. 
  • When Things Fall Apart: Heart Advice for Difficult Times by Pema Chödrön: Wise words from an essential Buddhist author on ways to heal and survive in difficult moments. This is one of those books you buy because although short, you return to it again and again. 
  • Man's Search for Meaning by Viktor E. Frankl: There is a reason this book remains legendary decades after it was first published. If you want a window into the darkest moments humanity can experience as well as the resilience and triumph of the human spirit, look no further. This is also an excellent way to re-frame your privilege and reality – after reading the horrors Frankl experienced in the Holocaust it’s pretty damn hard to feel sorry for yourself. 
  • Tiny Beautiful Things: Advice on Love and Life from Dear Sugar by Cheryl Strayed: I’ve recommended and purchased few authors more than Cheryl Strayed. There is a lot of wisdom and healing to be found in these advice columns. This is more of a human and heart healing book, but it’s a guide for understanding how to write empathetically and just a great read in general. 

Books I Haven’t Read Myself But Come Highly Recommended




Monday, March 30, 2020

Thrillist: Cape Verde Vacation Planner

We could all use a little escapism right now, right? 


Photo courtesy of Thrillist

If you agree, then check out my recent article for Thrillist about planning a trip to Cape Verde, a small island nation off the coast of West Africa that I have been wistfully longing to return to ever since leaving last June and named one of Thrillist's 20 best places to travel in 2020. Although cooped up like all of you in quarantine, I can't help dreaming about a return to sunny cocktails and sandy shores, and this is top of my list to get back to someday.

Read the full article on Thrillist here, and the copy is also saved below for posterity. Tell me - have you been to Cape Verde? What other destinations are you dreaming of escaping to in these tense times? I'd love any recommendations you might have for planning when we're all free again!

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Located 350 miles off the coast of Senegal, Cape Verde is a one-of-a-kind island nation, comprised of some of the most gorgeous tropical islands in the world. Historically, though, this wasn’t always the easiest place to survive.

Arid and uninhabited when the Portuguese landed here in the 15th century, Cape Verde's difficult ecology is an extension of the nearby Sahara Desert and multiple volcanoes. Over the centuries, each of its 10 islands developed a distinct cultural flavor, thanks to the disparate groups of people that passed through and managed to survive there. Today, Cape Verde has emerged from a history of struggle and poverty with a rich, complex culture all its own.

All Cape Verdean culture seems to include principles of yin and yang, struggle and celebration, light and dark. The music, best described as a blend of slow Portuguese Fado and Caribbean pop, often pairs happy instrumentation with pensive, deep lyrics; the food is spicy but filled with umami; and the wine is light but deeply flavorful (and shockingly cheap -- a good bottle easily knocks in at under $5 USD, even in restaurants).

Innovative Cape Verdeans have used the dry, mineralized soil to create a delicious cuisine starring bold wines, flavorful coffees, and hearty produce. Combined with fresh seafood and the nearby legacy of dishes like Senegalese thieboudienne, Cape Verdean food blends the best traditions of Portugal and the West African diaspora into flavorful, stewed dishes you’ll find nowhere else.

An increasingly popular destination for Europeans, Cape Verde still flies under the radar for Americans. But with flights to be found in the $600 range, we’re calling Cape Verde one of the 20 Best Places for a Big Trip in 2020. To make the most of your trip, we made this 10-day itinerary featuring the best things to do on the islands -- but when in doubt, find some sand and follow the music.

When to visit Cape Verde in 2020

To avoid the rainy season, plan to visit November through June. Head to the island of São Vicente the week of Shrove Tuesday (February 25) to catch Cape Verde’s celebration of Carnival, which blends the best of Brazilian party and parade traditions with West African influences. An annual crowd favorite is the performance by the Mandingas, an ethnic group from the nearby countries of Senegal and Gambia, who dress as warriors and lead parades throughout the festival. Because attendance is lower at the Cape Verdean Carnival than its Brazilian and Caribbean counterparts, it is comparatively quite affordable.

All festivals in Cape Verde place music in a starring role -- the Gamboa Music Festival on the island of Santiago is in May every year and features an eclectic mix of world-class DJs, local bands, and guest musicians from all over Brazil and Africa who perform a range of genres including salsa, Latino, zouk, reggae, and funaná.

Know before you go

It’s tough to hit every island within a 10-day time frame, and every island has a different vibe to offer, so the best strategy is to pick two or three islands and really nail it.

Visitors with US passports don’t need to purchase a visa unless you’re staying for more than a month. There’s a 31 euro fee per person upon arrival, so exchange some money into euros before leaving the States. (Cape Verde’s local currency, the escudo, is available at ATMs in urban locations around the islands).

Days 1-3: Kick off with beach time on the island of Sal, or São Vicente

Dive deep into island life and fly into Sal, the tourist hub of Cape Verde. This island is a one-stop shop for savoring the sun, sand, sea, and stars. Do as many active excursions as possible (dune buggies, sailing, horseback riding, etc.) with a local company like No Limits Adventure.

Visit a beach where turtles nest; stand in a bay of lemon sharks; and visit historic towns, like the salt-production center in Pedra de Lume for the chance to float in the world’s second-saltiest body of water. You can rent a car and guide yourself around, but to get the most bang for your buck, I recommend a formal tour with Reis Transport.

If you’d rather go somewhere a little less crowded, choose the island of São Vicente. This is the birthplace of world-renowned singer Cesária Évora. Cape Verdean music has evolved from African, Portuguese, and Brazilian influences; the primary genre is a slow, bluesy style called Morna -- Cesária Évora's specialty.

Évora’s spirit is everywhere on her island of birth; visit her home or her grave in Mindelo and savor the beautiful colonial architecture along the way. Évora often sang about São Vicente, describing it as “a little Brazil / full of joy and colors.” You’ll see why immediately while standing at the summit of Mount Verde, Cape Verde’s highest point, or driving through Madeiral, a valley that grows most of the island’s produce such as bananas, papayas, mangos, palm dates, and sugar cane, also popular Brazilian crops.

Days 4-6: Slow down on Boa Vista

On the island of Boa Vista, you'll explore a stunning diversity of beaches in a surprisingly small geographic area; there are direct flights from Sal.

Some of the best beaches include the white sand and quiet seclusion of Praia de Chaves (also a prime windsurfing spot); the golden sand of Praia de Santa Mónica, perfect for long, romantic walks or spotting whales; Praia de Atalanta, where you can explore a shipwreck in the warm, shallow water; or the Praia de Cabral, right by the city of Sal Rei, Boa Vista’s capital. Sink slowly into glowing sand with a cool drink and no plans.

If you get tired of bumming by the water, hire a quad bike through Quad Zone to take advantage of Boa Vista’s unique ecology. A must-visit is the Viana Desert, an extension of the Sahara that will take your breath away. The desert sand also contributes to Boa Vista’s reputation for excellent ceramics, so stop by the city of Rabil, Boa Vista’s former capital, to purchase some traditionally made ceramic goods.

An unforgettable visit is the Museu dos Naufràgos (Museum of Castaways), where guests pose as castaways from a recently crashed ship and are led on a journey through a mystical history of the islands. For a more academic time, hire Cau Tours for a detailed look at Sal Rei.

Days 7-8: Food, wine, and volcanic black sand on Fogo

Take a ferry or airplane from Boa Vista to the otherworldly volcanic island of Fogo, the hungry traveler's favorite stop in Cape Verde. Chã das Caldeiras, the active volcano at the center of the island, looms over all of Fogo and is responsible for the dry but nutrient-dense soil that drives Cape Verde’s wine and coffee industry.

Even the most experienced hikers should hire a local guide to take you up to the peak of the volcano. Prepare to commit -- most tours begin very early and last for a full day, leading directly to the volcano’s peak, then making several stops on the way back down at local villages, which grow excellent wine and coffee. Make sure to ask if the price of your tour includes food and drink at these stops, and bring cash -- you’ll want to haul back at least a few bottles of wine or some goat cheese.

Don’t leave without ordering some Fogo culinary specialties like djagacida (a dense, flavorful, starchy dish made of corn, fish, and beans -- think of it like red beans and rice meets mofongo), pastel de milho (a cake made of corn), bissap (hibiscus flower juice), or calabaceira (baobab fruit juice).

Days 9-10: Cape Verde’s largest island, Santiago

The largest island of Cape Verde, Santiago is home to Praia, Cape Verde’s capital and biggest city. It’s easy to get around Santiago on your own with Ubers and taxis, plus it's easier access to shopping and a wider variety of restaurants and lodging. Praia also offers front-row access to the best clubs featuring live music.

To get a tour of the full island, contact Bu Country Tours -- you’ll get a taste of everything from the Praia market to a traditional Cape Verdean cooking demonstration and a stop at a banana and coconut plantation. Another easy drive from Praia is through the lovely Serra Malagueta Natural Park at the northern portion of Santiago. Or, take a quick jaunt to Cidade Velha, an original 15th century Portuguese settlement with cobblestone streets and dazzling views of the islands.

Whatever route you take, no trip to Praia (or indeed all of Cape Verde) is complete without a night out at Quintal da Musica for a delicious dinner and an unforgettable exposure to traditional Cape Verdean music forms like morna and funaná. Close out your trip on a high note by making sure to order a caipirinha and gambas grelhadas (grilled prawns) to start, followed by a bottle of the crisp local white wine Cha Vinho Do Fogo and the arroz de polvo (octopus rice) for a meal you will never forget, much like the mournful music.

Keep it going: Get to the West African continent

If Cape Verde has piqued your interest in West Africa, now's the time to explore this region, which is uniting under the banner of ECOWAS (think of it as the European Union of West Africa, with a connected infrastructure and currency currently in progress). There are many options to travel between nations, so don't be afraid to flight hop or rent a van and hire a driver for the long haul.

One of the easiest places for Americans to start is Ghana, an English-speaking nation with several direct flights from the East Coast. Ghana has wonderful food, wildlife, and historic tours, plus a bustling African American expat community that is thriving after a successful "Year of Return," a 2019-long celebration that encouraged members of the African diaspora to return to the motherland.

Senegal is a close second choice; its capital, Dakar, is a rapidly rising arts and cultural center. Dakar has wonderful beaches, museums, cuisine, and historic sites to visit, as well as a fun club scene. For a quieter but no less enjoyable stop, consider visiting Togo, a small Francophone nation tucked between Ghana and Benin. You'll find affordable safaris, the origins of Voodoo, and arguably the best foufou the region has to offer.

Meet the Writer

Becki Iverson is a Thrillist writer and an ardent lover of all things arts, food, and travel. You can follow her wide-ranging passions on her blog, Compendium, or on social media on Instagram.  

When was the last time you were in Cape Verde?

June of 2019, at the tail end of a dream trip and honeymoon through West Africa.


What drew you there?

One of my first bonding experiences with my husband was over music. I had always loved the soulful voice of Cesária Évora, and he also loved her music right away. We played her catalog constantly -- she became such a favorite that we included multiple songs in our wedding. It became a priority for us to visit her homeland someday, and when we realized we’d be nearby for our honeymoon in West Africa, we had to spend the extra cash to make sure we made it there to pay homage.

What was the most surprising thing about the place that you didn't expect?

Experiencing the blended Creole identity that the majority of Cape Verdeans now share was striking for an interracial couple like my husband and I -- especially coming from a place like America where people tend to draw stark lines between their individual racial identities. It’s one of the few places we have not received stares out in public together (New Orleans is the only similar comparison I can think of). This story in the LA Times captures Cape Verde’s complex multiracial dynamic better than I ever could.

Number one can’t-miss recommendation for a visitor?

Visiting Quintal da Música for a long dinner, cocktails, and live music. There’s no better way to capture the spirit and contradictions of Cape Verde than spending some real time listening to morna and coladeira.

For example, Cape Verdeans have struggled to define their culture through the centuries -- are they more African? Portuguese? Or something entirely new? One of Cesária’s most famous songs is called “Africa Nossa” (or “Our Africa”). It has a very upbeat, celebratory musical tone, yet includes quite serious lyrics like these:

The sky has cleared
Consciousness has brightened
The time has come to face reality
A suffering people
Have soothed their pain
To live in peace and progress

Make sure to spend time with some songs, even before you go, to gain a richer understanding of the push-pull nature of this culture.

How easy is it to get around for English speakers?

Cape Verde has been a very stable democracy for more than 30 years and is quite safe for tourists. I recommend utilizing a local tour service to connect your destinations or help schedule tours. Travel between islands can be difficult, and spontaneous travel and lodging between islands is especially tough to navigate. Two great options are Todahora Tours or Cape Verde Vacation and Services.

If, however, you prefer to visit only one or two locations slowly on your own or don’t anticipate trying to pack in many activities across multiple islands, you can wing it with no trouble. You’ll find travel conveniences like Uber and Airbnb, especially on the more populated islands like Sal, Santiago, or Boa Vista.

What’s your top piece of advice for someone going for the first time?

This is a place where it really pays to plan ahead. Because travel between islands is relatively limited (usually just a couple flights or ferry options per day), it’s hard to spontaneously jump between them. It’s also like any other island nation where the pace is slower than urban continental life, so expect things to take longer than you’re probably used to.

What's the next big trip you have planned in 2020?

We have several friends living in Sweden and Norway, so we’re hoping to make it out to see them and explore parts of both countries I still haven’t seen (mostly the northernmost areas).

Monday, March 16, 2020

Consistently Updating Post: Ways to Help Fight Covid-19 in Minnesota

We're all in this together. 


Image by ADAM ZYGLIS, THE BUFFALO NEWS, NY

I, like many of you, have been shocked at how quickly changes due to COVID-19 have rippled through our communities in the last few weeks. Literally overnight we have seen closures of stores, entertainment, transit, conferences, workplaces, schools, and just about every non-essential function.

I know that I always feel better in times of need or crisis when I feel like I am able to do something (anything) to help others. Often that involves physical volunteering as my funds are limited, which is obviously off the table right now for most organizations (and for me personally).

That said, there ARE many ways that organizations are creatively finding ways to pitch in to help each other out and uplift the community. I've seen links flying around ad hoc and wanted to consolidate what I can find for anyone seeking a one-stop-shop of ways to give back and kick into gear. See below for what I have and keep checking back here - I will continuously amend this list as more organizations announce initiatives.

And as a reminder - make sure to express your gratitude when you are able to those who are on the front lines of risk of exposure to and fighting the infection rate of the virus. It expands far beyond just healthcare, and there are crucial groups of workers (such as janitors, grocery and gas store clerks, etc.) who deserve our care, attention, respect and gratitude. This article provides a good illustration of some of these workers and the risks they currently face.

To start off, this is a one stop shop collecting resources by zip code across the entire U.S. It's an amazing spot to resource help of many kinds - check it out: https://findhelp.org/

This is also a good resource for questions about the stimulus that passed the U.S. Senate yesterday - it's a handy FAQ from the New York Times. 

Healthcare 

I am *obviously* not a medical professional - so don't listen to me (or any other blogger / internet personality / etc.) about medical habits. Instead, seek these resources:


Education / Childcare

While schools are trying to set up remote learning, many parents still need to fill time with enriching activities while systems are down or overloaded. Here's a roundup of some proactive ideas:


Food Access

Many, many restaurants are offering to provide free meals to students who cannot eat for free at school (god bless them all!). This master list is being maintained with addresses and details of what kinds of meals are available.


For shoppers - pay attention to which foods have WIC marking on the price tags and when possible choose other options. WIC assisted shoppers are not allowed to choose other items when WIC items are sold out, so saving those groceries for those who have no choice will help those most in need.

Also some grocery stores are implementing limited hours for shoppers most at risk of the virus (compromised immune systems, the elderly, etc.) to shop first and have first access to most goods. Lunds & Byerlys is one such store - at-risk shoppers can come from 7 - 8 a.m., and the store opens to all shoppers after 8 a.m.

If you want something to do physically with your free time, Second Harvest Heartland needs volunteers to help pack individual food drop off boxes. They have a huge space that allows volunteers to follow COVID-19 protections (lots of soap available, 6+ foot distance between volunteers, etc.), so it's a safer option than others to volunteer. Click here to learn more.

And additionally, the hospitality industry is being devastated by this crisis - many are already unemployed, and restaurant and catering groups are quickly working to pivot towards nontraditional business revenues. Eater has a more global update on things you can personally do to help your favorite local venues weather this storm.

Local beer producers are beginning to offer pickup and delivery, so if you want libations to pick up your spirits (ahem) - click here to learn more and support small local businesses through an extremely tough time.

Additionally, CityPages developed a nice resource for restaurants and booze purveyors offering pickup and / or delivery, and WCCO News has created *the* definitive list (in interactive map form!) for restaurants offering pickup and delivery throughout the crisis.

NPR just did a great short piece on why you don't need to disinfect your groceries, also giving important tips for safely grocery shopping to limit your exposure.

Housing, Utilities and Pay

Help fellow citizens know their rights regarding housing bills and utilities; many state and governments are mandating consumer ad citizen protections, and Minnesota is one of them. The following are resources for anyone being challenged on bills, housing, etc.:

Several Twin Cities Neighborhoods are collecting resources to share with each other - check out the following links for those:

Entertainment / Business

If you're a long-time Compendium reader than you know how close the arts and entertainment industry of Minnesota is to my heart. They are being deeply impacted by the ongoing crisis. Below are some ways you can support them (as well as creative programs being released to help take your mind off things).

Donate

If you had tickets to a show that closed or was postponed, please don't ask for refunds if you can help it. Every dollar that can stay in the theatrical community will help keep doors open and lights on once they are cleared to do so, and liquid cash is one of the resources most scarce for these organizations even in the best of times.

Donate to the Personal Emergency Relief Fund for artists hosted by Springboard for the Arts. This is going to be a very, very important pot of money as dozens of theaters are indefinitely closed during the height of their regular season programming, affecting hundreds of artists around the state. If you have any cash, please toss a little their way.

Otto Bremer Trust just established a $50 million fund to help organizations weather the crisis. Click here for more information.

Minnesota Voluntary Organizations Active in Disaster (MnVOAD) has a full listing of organizations cleared to accept hands-on volunteers; check out their detailed information if you want to get out of the house to help the community.

Watch / Distract Yourself

This article is a nice reminder that it's ok to prioritize mental health and unplug from the constant barrage of news about the virus. Take a walk, do some meditation, read a book and call it a day. It's ok to slow down at this time. I will continue adding a roundup of creative initiatives from arts and entertainment organizations below as well:

Locally Hosted Options


National / International Options